Reports from distant regions and special events

Prevailing Prejudices Among Us

🚧 Albania is backward and still stuck in its communist past

❌ Wrong!
In fact, the country has made significant economic, social, and infrastructural progress in recent years.
Especially in the technical sector—for example, with its digital government system—Albania has nothing to hide compared to Germany.
The era of so-called "stone-age communism" under dictator Enver Hoxha, when the country completely shut itself off from the outside world and only let foreigners in under exceptional circumstances, is now just a dark chapter in its history.

⚠️ Albania is dangerous

🔎 Many people consider Albania unsafe. Yet the crime rate has fallen sharply in recent years.
Today the country is regarded as a relatively safe travel destination—especially for independent explorers.
As everywhere, you should travel with common sense, but Albania is not a dangerous place.
😌 We never felt afraid or even uneasy at any point!

Some friends looked at us in disbelief when we said we were traveling to Albania:
"ALBANIA?!? It's full of crooks and bandits!"
😂 Sure—because wild robbers lie in wait everywhere, counting loot under the stars.
And anyway, the bandits have long since set up shop in St. Pauli!
Strangely, the slipperiest, most worn cobblestones at the sights were the most dangerous thing that actually happened to us!

🚗 All Albanians drive Mercedes

✅ True... to some extent! The prevalence of German cars—VW, Audi, and especially Mercedes—is strikingly high.
Our guide joked that “there are probably more Mercedes on Albanian roads than in Germany.”
🔧 The reasons? durability, prestige, and earlier import availability all play a part.

🕌 All Albanians are Muslims

🤝 Yes and no! A large portion of the population practices Islam—but Albania is one of the most religiously tolerant countries in Europe!
Alongside Muslims, many Orthodox and Catholic Christians also live there.
A mosque next to a Christian church? No problem!
The separation of religion and state, plus a diversity of beliefs, interests, and lifestyles, has shaped the nation for decades.

🚗 Tirana → Kruja → Durrës

🛬 Arrival in Tirana the day before – Right at the airport, we were met by our personal tour guide, Eri (Ermal Veseli).

🚗💨🚗💨🚗💨 The drive to the hotel – a little test of patience
Tirana welcomed us not only with sunshine but also with traffic challenges. The 18 kilometers from the airport to the city center were meant to be a quick ride – at least in theory. Yet by 3:00 PM, the one-lane access road was so mercilessly congested that our journey turned into an exercise in calm.

On the very first day, we got to benefit from Eri's wealth of insider knowledge — something that would happen again and again over the next two weeks. He immediately recommended a culinary hidden gem for dinner: the cozy restaurant Era Vila, just 300 meters from our hotel — a perfect start to our trip!

The next day, our tour truly got underway.

🏰 Stopover in Kruja – On our way to the coast, we paused at the legendary Kruja Fortress. Here, we immersed ourselves in Albanian history and visited two outstanding museums:

- Skanderbeg Museum – An impressive site dedicated to the Albanian national hero Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg. His resistance against the Ottomans in the 15th century remains unforgettable in Albania to this day!

- Ethnographic Museum – A charming Ottoman house from the 18th century that offers a fascinating insight into traditional Albanian life.

- The Fortress Itself – The imposing citadel tells a moving story of resistance and national pride, while offering a breathtaking view of the surroundings.

✨ Destination for the First Day:
Durrës – The first leg of our journey ends at the coast! Time for the sea, the beach, and fresh discoveries.

But first, a little culture!
Before we could feel the sand between our toes, we took a brief detour into the past – or rather, what remains of it.
The amphitheater and the forum were once the heart of the city... today, they primarily spark our imagination. The ruins tell tales of a glorious era when gladiators clashed and philosophers debated.

💭 Imagine this: Romans in togas, an electrified audience, and us right in the middle – except that the amphitheater no longer exudes quite the same charm as it once did. But hey, who needs a complete arena when you have a vivid imagination?

That evening, we ate fish for the first time right on the pretty promenade. The restaurant owners apparently bought up the remaining stocks from the Titanic:

🚗 Durrës → Elbasan → Pogradec

The Epidamn Hotel

What? According to our itinerary, we were actually supposed to stay at Hotel Arvi in Durrës. But a last-minute reroute—without any warning—catapulted us into a completely different hotel. Well… how bad could it be?

Turns out, pretty bad!

If minimalism is an art, this hotel is a masterpiece—albeit more in the style of “Can you even call this a room?” Our room was so tiny that I kept bumping my knees—or toes—on the narrow passage between bed and table. The shower? A place where you can’t even turn around without kissing the fixtures. And the suitcases? They camped out on the floor.
Boutique hotel, sure—but here the term was taken a bit too literally: less really is more. Or put another way: too little is just too little!

But maybe breakfast would save the day… yes… maybe…

A la carte breakfast? Sounds fancy. We were intrigued. But the big surprise came quickly: you could choose exactly one item from the menu, plus one coffee and one juice—and that was it. Anything else? Extra charge!
A second roll? Extra.
Another sip of coffee? Extra.
A pinch of generosity? Not on offer.

We’re certainly not complainers, but this experience did prompt us to file a brief complaint with the German agency. Luckily they responded quickly and comped us a dinner as compensation—more on that later.

💭 Conclusion: We had never experienced anything like this—and of all places, here in a country we had come to know as so warm and welcoming! An experience we’ll definitely remember—just not necessarily in a good way.

Whatever, moving on… next stop Pogradec! Short break in Elbasan—after such an odyssey, a pause felt wonderful! Over a restorative coffee, we recharged before heading on to the castle ruins. Despite their age, they whisper stories from bygone times. A quick stroll through the historic walls, a few photos—and then back on the road.

Arrival in Pogradec – lake breeze and perfect value
Once we reached Lake Ohrid, we treated ourselves to a well-deserved break.

🍺 A local beer for the equivalent of €2? Exactly the kind of pricing that brings a big smile to our faces. Panorama, relaxation, and a cold drink—what more could you want?

Stretching across the largest lake in the region (about 350 km², up to 300 m deep!), the border with North Macedonia runs right through it. Perfect conditions for a sailing trip—at least in theory.
In reality, we searched in vain for sailboats on Lake Ohrid. On Hamburg’s Alster there would already be a scene, but here it’s peaceful and still.

🐟 Culinary discovery: Fish Grill NDONA
After many trips, we’re practically pros at restaurant scouting—big disappointments are rare! We chose Fish Grill NDONA right on the promenade, where a true rarity is served: koran, the legendary trout species found only in Lake Ohrid.
The perfect blend of tender flesh and finely tuned aroma—just the right way to cap off the day and forget about breakfast.

Breakfast? Did we even have breakfast today?

And as the crowning touch, a raki aged seven years in the barrel—served with style:

🚗 Pogradec → Voskopoje → Korça

🌅 A Morning Full of Surprises!

Today our sightseeing luck was, unfortunately, not on our side – but before we could worry about it, breakfast was first on the agenda!

🍽️ No buffet again… oh dear!

After yesterday’s mini-breakfast our mood was appropriately cautious: Hungry? Yes. Hopeful? Not really.

But then breakfast arrived – and the table groaned under the weight of all those delights!
From lavish specialties to a selection that made every foodie’s heart race.
So much that we couldn’t even come close to finishing it all!

Well-fed but slightly overwhelmed by the abundance, we set off again – back on the road!

Church visits with obstacles
We had planned a tour of the historic churches in Voskopoje – but reality followed its own liturgical calendar:

The first church? Closed for renovations for two years – and it will likely stay that way for another six months.
An agency should have known that – or better yet, had to know!

The second church? Also locked. No entry. No explanation. No blessing.

Luckily, we had our genius guide Eri with us.
A master of improvisation, he grabbed his phone, called the local priest – and lo and behold: one church was unlocked just for us!
If you ever get lost in Albania – forget Google Maps.
Just ask for Eri. 😎

The Medieval Museum in Korça? Unfortunately closed!
And another planning mishap: Monday is their day off – and today is ... oh yeh ... Monday!
A competent agency should have known that in advance!

🍺 Plan B: Beer instead of a Browse!
But Eri wouldn’t be Eri if he didn’t have a worthy “B” alternative ready: a brewery! With a guide like him, even chaotic plans can be redeemed…

We headed to the Korça brewpub and let the history lessons continue in liquid form. 😆
And a little surprise: between the kettles and rustic decor hangs a photo of Angela Merkel – mug in hand and a look that says, "I’m not leaving!"

🍽️ A Feast Without Scouting – Just Enjoy!

Today we didn’t need to scout a restaurant – the tour operator gave us a dinner voucher and led us to the charming Hotel and Restaurant Bujtina Sidheri, complete with a cozy dining room!
There we were treated to a 7-course menu. And what a menu it was!

🥂 The Courses – a True Flavor Explosion:

• Three cold appetizers – the perfect opener!
• Burrata with ham on a bed of salad and angel hair – sounds poetic, tastes divine.
• Large mushrooms stuffed with cheese – hearty and aromatic.
• Creamy vegetable soup – rarely (or never) have we had such an excellent veggie soup!
• Spinach börek – crispy, spicy, fantastic.
• Steamed pork belly with dried fruits – a rich yet brilliant combination!
• Fruit cake with vanilla ice cream and fruit in syrup – the sweet finale to an impressive evening.

✨ But multi-course dining works a bit… differently here.
While elsewhere you leisurely make your way through each course, in Albania one rule apparently applies: everything. comes. at. once. 😅

Okay, not everything – but dishes arrived at breakneck speed, sometimes several at once 😉
Our festive meal became a culinary battle, where in about 60 minutes every flavor hit us simultaneously.
A marathon of enjoyment that definitely pushed us to our limits – but a challenge we happily accepted!

🚗 Korça → Girokaster

Today we drove for hours through pristine nature, endlessly admiring the hills, mountains, rivers, and scenery.
📸 Here are a few snapshots of this breathtaking landscape:

🌟 But this dreamlike drive was abruptly interrupted by two unexpected incidents...

🚧 Suddenly: a car – half airborne, completely baffling!

Just before a sharp right turn the road plunged steeply downhill, secured by sturdy concrete bollards – around one meter tall, firmly anchored, impossible to miss.

And yet: right in front of us was a car parked crosswise on those bollards, as if someone had placed a Matchbox car on top of a matchbox.

The front axle was already hanging over the ravine’s edge, the rear wheels were completely in midair – the car’s underside rested on two bollards like on a balance beam. Hovering. Surreal. Unbelievable.

👀 The driver? Completely calm, sitting a few meters away on the roadside, smoking. As if that was his regular parking spot.

How did he manage that? No idea. 🤷‍♂️
Probably in one of those rare parallel universes where physics is optional.

Of course we offered help – but the (clearly intoxicated) driver waved us off: “Help’s already on the way.” Indeed: less than a minute later, police and an emergency doctor passed us going the other way. Fate was on shift.

Why no photo?
Because we’re not influencer vultures exploiting accidents and victims for clicks and calling it “social media.” 🚫

🐎 Many horsepower vs. a single horse – not a fair match!

Just a few minutes later – we’d barely recovered from the “flying car” shock – the next surprise awaited:

A Mercedes station wagon collided so violently with a free-roaming horse that the windshield cracked!
(...the car’s windshield, not the horse’s, in case that was briefly unclear 😂)

The frightened horse, apparently struck – was still standing but on trembling legs. Completely still, as if it missed the film crew’s “Cut!”

The sight was absurd: high-tech car versus raw nature. And by the looks of it, this was no minor fender-bender.

The animal remained standing, but whether it walked away unharmed remained unclear.
The next police car had just arrived – we stayed out of it and continued our journey in silence.

😮 Two incidents in under ten minutes – both so bizarre you’d hardly believe them if you hadn’t witnessed them yourself.

Arriving in Girokaster, we quickly understood why the city is nicknamed “City of 1,000 Steps.” But I’ll save that story for tomorrow ;-)

🗺️ City Tour of Girokaster

But let’s start with breakfast: if it was “lavish” in Pogradec, then the question is: how do you even describe it here? 🤔
Take a look at the picture and decide for yourself … and before you ask: the table seats four guests – but it’s only set for two!

Well fueled, we headed to the imposing castle. Thanks to our guide Eri, we could skip the steep climb (remember the 1,000 steps 😉) – he dropped us off right at the entrance.
That’s the real perk of having a great guide! Inside, we found weapons from bygone eras (from the 15th century to World War II), fascinating documents, and one of the most humorous warning signs I’ve ever seen (and yes – I’ve seen quite a few):

🍽️ Culinary Finale

Two nights at Kujtimi Restaurant – a choice that paid off! If you ever go there: the freshly fried fish is a must.

And the best part? The restaurant was just 100 m away from our charming Hotel Fantasy, which truly lives up to its name.

🗺️ Girokaster → Butrint → Saranda

In Saranda we then had the afternoon and the next day free for our own plans – but that evening a special gathering was on the agenda: dinner with Eri at his friends’ place.

You know how it goes: every guide has his cousin, brother-in-law, buddy who claims to offer the biggest, best, most extraordinary experience you could ever need 😏

This time? No empty promises! The Restaurant Dollia truly delivered first-class — so good that we returned the very next evening.

They served Paidhaqe (pronounced bei-thah-tshe)—a grilled lamb platter with generous sides, featuring meat cut off the bone in bite-sized pieces. A true flavor marvel!

Another highlight that night: it was apparently regulars’ night at Dollia. At the neighboring table, about ten local veterans were immersed in loud debate — so loud that Eri and the staff glanced at us nervously, wondering if we’d complain. But they had us wrong: this is exactly the local color we love! 😁

😳 And then: The sheep’s head

On the second night, Heike and I indulged in a da capo. Paidhaqe just had to happen again.
But Eri? He enthusiastically ordered a roast sheep’s head and devoured it with gusto.

What can you say? VERY much an acquired taste—even for the guest sitting right next to it! 😅

collapse "🗺️ Girokaster → Butrint → Saranda"

🗺️ Saranda → Porto Palermo → Vlora

On the way, we made a stop at Porto Palermo to visit the fortress of the infamous Ali Pasha. If you’re thinking, “Hang on, that name rings a bell…” – you’re absolutely right. In Dumas’s “The Count of Monte Cristo,” he appears as the ruler of Janina, complete with a (fictional) daughter Haydée, who plays a key role in the Depardieu adaptation.

The truth is: Ali Pasha really existed. He ruled not only large parts of what is now Albania, but also significant regions of Greece.

And Porto Palermo? Sure, “Porto” means port. But “Palermo”? Our guide shared a legend too good to skip:
Ali Pasha knew how to do business—and if you’re going into shady ventures, at least pick a safe harbor! The bay suffers from unpredictable winds, so he built a secure port where ships could pay for shelter in bad weather. The place was already called Palermo (or earlier Panorma—derived from the Italian city). Over time, a tale grew up that the local wind was named “Palermit” (like other Mediterranean winds: mistral, levante, sirocco, …) and that the town got its name from the wind. but ...there’s no record of a “Palermit” wind in the Mediterranean — still, it makes a great story. 😉

📸 The triangular fortress naturally perches picturesquely on a peninsula—postcard motif guaranteed:

Arriving in Vlora, we encountered the familiar coastal phenomenon: just like in Durrës and Saranda, every seaside town seems to have faithfully copied the late-’70s concrete eyesores of Mallorca & Co. Block upon block of bunker-style buildings, with no charming promenade or scenic corniche in sight—such a shame!

📸 At least the sunset pulled out all the stops to rescue the skyline:

An then: today’s “Hotel Surprise of the Day.” The previous guest in our room must have been quite the prankster! They dumped loose ice cubes into the freezer without a tray and then switched off the fridge. You can imagine what greeted me when I opened the door…

🗺️ Vlora → Apollonia → Berat

On our way to the penultimate stop, we paused at the sprawling archaeological site of Apollonia.

Vast, yes. A touch overgrown, also true. But hey, history sometimes wears its patina proudly.

Then we continued on to Berat. First up was the Ethnographic Museum, followed by the viewpoint and an Orthodox church – culture overload before we made our way to Hotel Villa Alexander.

Phew…!!

The hotel sits practically right behind the Albanian National Bank, where driving and parking are strictly forbidden – certainly not to spare the neighbors.

So our indefatigable guide Eri shouldered not only his own hospitality but also our two suitcases, lugging them all the way across the streets and up to the hotel. Sound like light work? Wait until you see the photos – though the first two shots are missing, since snapping pictures in front of the bank is also prohibited. You get the picture.

Price-wise, the hotel is no bargain: 20 Euros for two beers, two raki, and a bottle of water? Maybe they factored in the muscle power needed to haul our luggage upstairs!

🗺️ Berat → Tirana

Almost at the end – final station: Tirana!

On the second day, Eri and I took a city tour: the Skanderbeg statue, two mosques, Downtown-One, and the Mother Teresa Cathedral. The cathedral was surprisingly understated – you could say it lives by the motto “less is more.” That suits Mother Teresa well, given she’s known more for quiet deeds than for grand structures.

Downtown-One:
At first glance it looks like a typical facade-drawers system. But from the right perspective, Albania appears in 3D – a deception with a sense of home.

Both evenings we returned to Restaurant Era – what can I say? It feels like home there! The meatballs in pistachio sauce have quietly stolen our hearts ;-)

And on that second night we used up another voucher from the agency for the botched booking – another tasting menu! Seven courses were promised, but we ended up with just five. (Lucky for us—Eri wasn’t thrilled since his agency paid for seven ;-))

Other than that, only one thing was on the agenda in Tirana: rest! After 1,300 kilometers on the road and even more on foot (we won’t even count the elevation gain), it was high time to stand still – otherwise we might have had to officially register as a hiking club.

I mentioned it on arrival: anyone planning the return trip from the city center to the airport should allow at least an hour! The access road is single-lane in both directions – which certainly spices things up for a major airport. The terminal itself is ultra-modern, unfortunately surrounded by road infrastructure that redefines “in need of expansion.” If you cut it too close, you’ll at best have time for a sprint to the gate – and without sportswear.

After more than 1,300 kilometers, a collection of wild stories, and a healthy dose of adventure, we can sum it up with a big smile:

• The warmth and friendliness of the Albanian people simply overwhelmed us! A simple smile from us was not only returned but met with genuine beaming faces.
• We were incredibly lucky with our guide, who took care of us with remarkable dedication.
  It felt like having a personal 24-hour concierge service. 😄
• The only downside: the rooms in the boutique hotels were often on the compact side (to avoid saying “tiny” 😉)—living out of a suitcase turned into a daily puzzle challenge.
• This trip was far more than just a stay in Albania—it was a kaleidoscope of discoveries, little mishaps, historic treasures, and culinary highs. In short: a memory box we won’t be closing anytime soon.

We hope the chaos, the breathtaking views, and the countless anecdotes will dance through our minds for a long time—and who knows, maybe our next journey will bring us right back here!

Or, in Heike’s words: